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This style is a reproduction of the 1876 A.B. Elfelt & Co. Champion Overall, first found by Mike Harris, later owned by Mike Hodis, and currently in the collection of vintage denim collector Viktor Fredbäck. Its importance lies in its era: it was made while the Levi's rivet patent was in full force (1873–1890), so brands had to devise clever ways to add strength without rivets. Here, the front pocket scoops are cut so most of the stress is carried in the waistband — including the amazing coin pocket. The back pocket is one of the most special we've ever seen: curved, and secured by the cinch buckle and waistband. Another lovely detail is a modification resembling a one-piece fly, where a small piece of denim was sewn in to keep the front and back of the fly connected. The waistband is sewn so the inside panel is narrow and wraps round wider at the wearer's front and back. Throughout, the style is made using a single-needle method with a combination of 1/8″ and 3/16″ twin-needle stitching.
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A straight fit through the seat and thigh, with a straight leg and a straight side seam, sitting at the waist. The pattern is made for use with selvedge denim.
This pattern is from the era of Shrink-To-Fit denim, and fits like most Shrink-To-Fit blocks.
This style is not graded — it is supplied in size 34 only, shown as an example marked W33/34 L34.
Check the measurements carefully — compare them with a pair you own that fits you well, measured laid flat on the floor or a table.
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All raw denim will shrink after washing — roughly two inches at the waist and two inches in length. This is only a guide, as all fabrics behave differently and shrink differently after washing. We recommend washing a 1m × 1m test piece of denim in a washing machine and measuring it before and after to see how much your fabric shrinks. Or simply wash your fabric before making your garment, knowing you will lose the raw denim look. Raw denim colour may transfer onto other surfaces.
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For the Personal and Personal Bundle licenses, the pattern is supplied in PDF format at the correct size.
For professional or commercial use only, the pattern is supplied in PDF, DXF, and Gerber (where available), all at the correct size.
You are buying the pattern only — not the garment.
Please note the file may not be viewable in Preview; instead, try opening it in Photoshop (make sure the scale is at 100%), Illustrator, or another vector-based programme, or print the pattern at a printer/copyshop.
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A digital pattern only. You can buy each size (Fit / Block) individually, or buy all sizes together in one package.
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Acceptance of Terms
By purchasing and downloading this pattern and/or pattern bundles, you agree to be bound by the terms of the license agreement. If you do not agree to these terms, you may not use this pattern.
PERSONAL BUNDLE LICENSE
What you can do:
Make garments for yourself, friends, and family
Create samples, toiles, and test pieces
Use for coursework, portfolio pieces, and personal projects
Sell finished handmade garments you've sewn yourself (small-batch, hobby production)
Print at home or at a copyshop/printer
Grade or resize the pattern for personal use only
What you cannot do:
Share, redistribute, or upload the PDF file
Modify the pattern and redistribute it
Use the pattern for factory, wholesale, or large-scale commercial production
Sell the pattern file itself
Sublicense or grant production rights to other makers or manufacturers