DENIM WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP X ENDRIME

ENDRIME # 0086-1 – LOCK STITCH ERGONOMIC TAPERED BRITISH ARMY GIBSON PANT – ARTISAN VERSION

Hi Here’s our entry for the #ARTISANCHALLENGE organised by Denim World Championship #DWC with @Union_of_artisans – which kicked OFF 1st May 2015 !

Our @endrime Creative Director Mohsin – fell in love with this Coloured Nep 13.5 oz denim from the Amazing small mill in China – We thought it was special enough for this Artisan challenge. its not something we would normally go for, esp non-selvage ! Mohsin in 2 evening session – designed, pattern cut, sewed this special British Army Denim pant Hybrid with trademark Endrime 3D ergonomic dart system –

This pants block is inspired by a British Green Selvage Army pant from 1940s – just with modern Interpretation – we upgraded it with a selvage Continuous Fly by David Neustadter which dates back to 30th October, 1877 – we added tailored belt loops, we attached from the top of the waist band ( no short cuts here) hand branded our own leather patch, used Concealed rivets on the back pockets-

We slimmed down the block so it’s still baggy – but slightly tapered it. Upgraded the internals with Selvage 12oz twill pocketing- Unique to us, we list every machine used inside the pant – with our machine hand stamps. – No over locker was used in this pants construction and no raw seams are visible.

All the main Components are made with a single needle machine. All felled seams are done by hand. So one side it’s single needle then the other side is twin – The Ultimate way to fell a seam. Only a Brother bar tacker and old 1950s singer lockstitch (which used to attach the button holes with – we made a difference to use lockstitch button holes vs chain stitch ) As keeping with the lockstitch theme – The only chainstitch we did use was the #unionspecial #43200g which we believe should be the only way to hem a pant. We will enjoy breaking this style in over the two year journey. #denimporn #rawdenim #endrime #Union_of_artisans

The the sprit of transparency – We have taken photographs in each step – which will talk over in step – heres goes:

 

FABRIC USED:

MAIN DENIM FABRIC USED:

BEST REACH TEXTILE COMPANY

#BR-SL1318 – COLOUR NEPS DENIM – 70% COTTON 30% POLY
6+7+8.5X7 / 64X64
WIDTH: 58/59″
13.5oz

TRIM SELVAGE DENIM USED:

KURABO – #HDX7 100% COTTON INDIGO SELVEDGE DENIM –
66X42, Slub-7.5 x MR-6, 3/1R,
WIDTH: 29/30″
13oz

TOTAL TIME TOOK TO MAKE:

PATTERN CUTTING – 2 HOURS
TRACING PATTERNS – 1 HOUR
CUTTING OUT JEAN – 45 MINS
SEWING THE JEAN TO COMPLETION : 6.5 HOURS

MACHINES USED: 5 IN TOTAL:

JUKI DDL5600NL – LOCKSTITCH
SINGER 15-91 – LOCKSTITCH – FOR LOCKSTITCH BUTTON HOLE
UNION SPECIAL 43200G – CHAINSTITCH HEMMING
BROTHER LK3-B220 – BAR TACK MACHINE
HANDPRESS ( FOR BUTTONS + RIVETS)

ENTIRE JEAN – DESIGNED AND MADE IN 2 EVENING SEESIONS AT ENDRIME LONDON STUDIOS 29/04/15 – BY MOHSIN SAJID / OWNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ENDRIME

02- Our Artisan Jean – started from a 1940’s British Selvage army Pant. ( well thats the inspiration)

 

Most people don’t realise, but we British did selvage denim – but ours was GREEN ! I have always liked this jean – but instead of just copying the Pant – we just used it as a starting point.

03- We already used this 1940S GIBSON ARMY PANT as a HOMAGE in our latest AW15 collection – see below

 

 

This earlier version was more true to the original pant – we made it more slimmer, But we upgraded with Selvage 1 piece Fly and internals and used a amazing Herringbone from Toyoshima Mills – our Artsian Version – i wanted to go back to the concept – but add more Ergonomics to it. 

06 I always wanted to revisit my Ergonomic knee dart – but add it to this pant… so far out of 30 different jeans i have created for ENDRIME – only 3 feature this knee dart –

 07 I then Reverse Engineered The Original Pant, with the Intension to add the ENDRIME Knee Dart.

 

 

11 – OUR DENIM COLOURED NEP 13.5oz

BEST REACH TEXTILE COMPANY

#BR-SL1318 – COLOUR NEPS DENIM – 70% COTTON 30% POLY
6+7+8.5X7 / 64X64
WIDTH: 58/59″
13.5oz

I fell in love with this Coloured Nep 13.5 oz denim from the Amazing small mill in China – We thought it was special enough for this Artisan challenge. its not something we would normally go for, esp non-selvage ! but we also use non-selvage, we just have have 1 rule – no overlockers – so this pant would give us another challenge – As we would have to come up with ways to finish the pant ( cleanly) so i automatically wanted to use single needle stitches – with single needle felled construction, but i also wanted to still use left over Kurabo selvage for some trim areas – here goes –

12 – After the pattern was completed, I traced out the Pattern, then quickly did my LAY PLAN – and directly CHALKING OUT the PATTERN – NICE !

 

 

16 – Next is organsing the PATTERNS CUTOUT

 

 

18 NEXT step is sewing the ENDRIME EROGONOMIC 7 POINT DART SYSTEM

 

 

We don’t tolerate any raw seams ( same as overlocking) so in this case as theres a raw seam on the Curved Knee dart, we bound the seam with Vintage cream herringbone tape

The last dart we need to sew is up is the yoke dart on the back panels:

22 SEWING the BACK POCKETS

 

1st you have to attached the pocket lining ( in a neat way, with clean finish) Then you press out the seam allowance ( notice the extra part on the top – thats for the concealed rivet) :

Then you sew the top edge of the pocket 3/16″ double turn ( clean finish) –

 

Then you aline the back pockets in there correct position –

 

 

28 – next is to BLIND BAR TACK THE BACK POCKETS

Then STARTING TO RIVET the CONCEALED RIVET to THE BACK POCKETS

 

The to start sewing the back pocket – after the blind bar tack + rivet are complete:

 

Heres the completed finished pocket ( front side):

 

Heres the completed finished pocket ( back side):

34 SEWING POCKET SELVAGE BEARERS ON SELVAGE POCKETING –
We pride our selfs to use Selvage Bearers ( thats the inside of the pocket thats still denim) its not really facing.. in denim world its called a ” Bearer ” Most if not all denim brands – follow the 1950s horrible construction and use overlocked edge – some turn it in, so its neat – We just use Selvage -its cleaner, and easier – and looks 100% better…

After the Bearer is attached – you cleanly finish the rest of the pocket bag

 

 

 

 And attach it to the main body – The results speak for them selfs:

37 SEWING THE ONE PIECE FLY DOUBLE TURN FRONT FLY –

I think we can safely say we ( ENDRIME ) Popularised this old detail. There is only 4 other brands that we can think of that used it well before us:

1. BOSS OF THE ROAD, ( OF COURSE THEY INVENTED IT)
2. WAREHOUSE
3. THE ONE JEANS ( MARK WESTMORELAND )
4. DENHAM

These are the only 4 brands that used this detail that i was personally aware of.

To help spread the knowledge – i even uploaded a video how to sew it – which you can view here:

But heres the pictures of Me, sewing our Artisan version –

1ST you double turn 3/16″ the fly opening (main body) clean stitch

Then you sew 1/2 the 1 piece fly closed – ( all neat remember) – so make sure you press everything before hand –

 

Then you Sew the button holes on the close side – you just sewn ( we used Lock stitch attachment on a old 1950 singer) as this was 95% made on lock stitch – just made sense to carry on the lock stitch theme.

 

looks cool when there attached like that –

 

Then you sew the fly stitch ( 1/2 of the 1 piece fly that closed) this decoration stitch is actually whats hold the fly in place – so make it count!

 

Then you carefully sandwich the other 1/2 of the 1 piece fly on the other front panel.

 

and heres the finished one piece fly: EASY  –

 

Well its funny – as its its cheaper to do this in production – GOD knows why others brands have not done it yet… SUBERB ! I used the left over Kurabo selvage i had – so not only does it look cool – its a nice pop / contrast when it wears in.

 

44 FINISH AND SEW FRONT POCKETS AND USE LOCKSTITCH BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT

– Next step is to sew the rest of the front pockets –

This part was easy – just press then all – sew them up – do any buttonholes that need doing etc..

 

Then after thats competed – its just a simple process to position them.. in place:

 

After they are placed – we sew !

 

its very important to sew the pocket flap with again a double turn – this way the RAW edge in hidden inside the flap – with one single pass of the sewing machine – I again used 3/16″ single needle edge stitch as my choice of stitch.

 

47 SINGLE NEEDLE FELL THE CB SEAM –

Just cos we are crazy – and this was a lock stitch jean – I thought it would be fun to single needle fell all the main seams –

All CB ( Centre Back ) seams – The Side Seam ( which would normally be selvage on a selvage pant )

and single needle fell the inseam – CRAZY ! check out the pictures below – we think the results are quite stunning:

1st is CB single needle fell- this means you have go over the seam twice in 2 passes – the second pass cleans it up – its double the time – and very expensive process – ( thats why no denim brands hardly do it )

Heres the Second pass – notice – how you clean up the seam – second time round – its a very easy and satisfying stitch to do…  ( well i enjoying sewing )

 

Now both front + back of the jean are complete – so its time to fell the side seams:

 

heres the one of the side seams being felled ( 1st pass)

 

And is the picture of the front pocket area – just before we completed the side seam – looks well nice already:

 

Heres a picture just after we completed the side seam felled seams.

 

And heres a picture of the inseam being passed ( This is 2nd pass)

 

And heres the finished Pant – all the main parts done: ( just missing is waistband + attaching buttons, leather patch and hemming the pant) NICE !

 

 

55 ATTACH THE SELVAGE WAISTBAND CLEAN FINISH –

The next step is to attach ( or insert) the selvage waistband – For this special Pant, we inserted it in to the 1 piece fly – Also just to make things more difficult – I made this pant have a grown on waistband – which ment I had insert my ( clean ) belt loops from the top of the waistband – super nice again, and very clean and british ! I also placed the main woven labels on, which i sewn on before i completed the waistband.

And here is the main woven labels being sewn on:

 

Next we sewed the waistband stitch – as this style is based on old 1940s – we followed the same measurement about 3″ (thats why the internal waistband is so large in length )

Then I cut out a fresh leather patch – which I hand branded earlier –

check out a old Artcle – where i talk about my branding iron – and my inspiration behide it –  again i would like to think – ENDRIME was one 1st to start to hand brand our own custom patches –

Blogs dont lie, check out a Blog Post dated back in September 2011 – where i talk about our ENDRIME branding iron:

http://mohsinsajid.blogspot.hk/2011/09/branding-irons.html

The last thing is sewing the Leather patch ( the japanese way) with the top waistband stitch –

Only our japanese friends do this – no other brands care about it – and slap it on – after wards – sewing it like this means – its been considered – thought about – it basically means – its been sewn the most hardest way possible – FACT !

Then we run the hem – through our UNION SPECIAL 43200G – chain stitch hemmer – NICE !

60 ATTACH BUTTONS AND STAMP THE INSIDE OF JEAN –

The Next phase, i attached all the buttons and rivets with our hand press – to make things more annoying  ( or labour intensive) I also leather backed all the buttons.

Next we hand stamped the pocket bags –

From the Very beginning of the ENDRIME jean concept – I made sure – every jean we sold – listed which machine was used ( good and bad ) – We even tell all of our customers – which fabric we used – and where is made – same goes for this one off :

I hand stamped the jean with the machines i used in our ENDRIME london studio, and i added QR stamps – which direct to our website and Blog, put or wash record stamp ( so when its washed its logged) and signed and dated it –

 

 

Heres the Finished Pant :

 

TOTAL TIME TOOK TO MAKE:

PATTERN CUTTING – 2 HOURS
TRACING PATTERNS – 1 HOUR
CUTTING OUT JEAN – 45 MINS
SEWING THE JEAN TO COMPLETION : 6.5 HOURS

MACHINES USED: 5 IN TOTAL:

JUKI DDL5600NL – LOCKSTITCH
SINGER 15-91 – LOCKSTITCH – FOR LOCKSTITCH BUTTON HOLE
UNION SPECIAL 43200G – CHAINSTITCH HEMMING
BROTHER LK3-B220 – BAR TACK MACHINE
HANDPRESS ( FOR BUTTONS + RIVETS)

ENTIRE JEAN – DESIGNED AND MADE IN 2 EVENING SEESIONS AT ENDRIME LONDON STUDIOS 29/04/15 – BY MOHSIN SAJID / OWNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ENDRIME

 

 

I hope you all enjoyed my step to step – guide – how i sewed this Special Artisan Pant –

Please check out the Video of my pant being made which i uploaded on INSTAGRAM just before the 1st May deadline

 

I hope you all enjoyed it – I uploaded it all in the sprit of the competition – Also ENDRIME is all about sharing knowledge – The more of us that share – the better we will all become –

Here again is my 1 piece fly video – feel free to try this cool fly for your selfs

 

I also teach denim history in many Universities round the world – Im currently lecturing at the Royal College of Art MA students – and I mentor about 6 students every year

You can check out a lecture i gave here: MOHSIN DENIM HISTORY LECTURE

Let me know if any of you have questions – ill try by best to reply when i can –

We will be reproducing this pant, as we have about 50m left in this crazy fabric – if anyone wants it – let us know info@endrime.com

warmest regards

Mohsin Sajid

Owner / Creative Director of ENDRIME

http://www.endrime.com